Written by Kim Hyang-il, Edited by Jo So-young, Chef

The sunlight, water, air, soil, and life energy contained in each ingredient, the effort of those who nurture them, and the chef's careful touch transform these ingredients into something digestible and delicious, giving birth to new combinations. The unique and special connections formed among people gathered around the table, and the strength gained from becoming one with what comes from the earth through food consumption—all these processes intertwine in a wondrous way, leading me to decide to explore cooking.

There is a saying that we eat with our eyes. Nowadays, the presentation of dishes, colors, and even the tableware have become crucial elements in cooking, and people want to engage all their senses when enjoying a meal. I would like to introduce Jo So-young, an artist and chef who gifts beautiful dishes that resonate with this desire.

In the old Jewish neighborhood of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, which has now become a gathering place for artists in New York, there is a spot that has served as a refuge for locals and passing tourists for over 20 years.

Marlow & Sons, owned by Andrew Tarlow, started as a diner in 1998 and has now become one of six businesses under The Marlow Collective. In the morning, it operates as a café serving coffee, pastries, tortillas, and seasonal brunch items, and in the evening, it transforms into a wine bar offering fresh oysters and its signature dish, brick chicken.

Jo So-young has a deep connection with Marlow & Sons.

"Shortly after moving to New York, I interned at a food-related design company called Sunday Suppers, which was just a five-minute walk from Marlow & Sons. I often went there to buy coffee during lunch breaks and had a good impression of the place, which led me to decide to learn cooking in the kitchen and apply for a job. After that, I worked at LaLou, a natural wine bar located in downtown Brooklyn, and recently returned to work here again."

Since the pandemic, Marlow & Sons has stopped evening service and now operates only for takeout and delivery from 8 AM to 5 PM.

"I am responsible for developing four menu items, cooking, and designing kimchi products here. Currently, I am making a kimbap set offered as a lunch box, triangle kimbap sold individually, kimchi, and seasonal soup dishes."

Kimbap and kimchi in a diner with hardly any Koreans around, especially popular among European tourists? It’s a perplexing thought.

"I wanted to create items that are somewhat different from the existing sandwiches and pastries while being easy to take out, which led me to try kimbap. Two years ago, the head chef at Marlow & Sons encouraged me to make kimchi for the menu, and I started developing and researching recipes from that point. Initially, I was unsure if kimchi would be well-received since the main clientele here is not Korean but local residents of Williamsburg, and the cuisine is Modern American. However, New York is quite open to different cultures, and since kimchi is already widely recognized as a health food, I received a surprisingly positive response from colleagues and customers."

A chef making kimchi in the heart of artistically vibrant New York—who would have imagined such a combination? Jo So-young, who breaks the stereotype that one must appear in traditional attire to be considered a kimchi expert, shares her reasons for making kimchi.

"I think my attachment to kimchi began after I got married. I wasn't someone who ate a lot of kimchi, but after coming to America, I enjoyed having it on the table. I believe it was due to a subconscious longing for Korea. Eating a meal that embodies the essence of Korea brings a sense of comfort and peace to both body and mind.

Another reason I became particularly interested in kimchi is its mysterious charm as a preserved food. The more I make kimchi, the more I realize that it is an intriguing food where the chef has limited control over the outcome. The taste can change with slight variations in the amount of ingredients, flavor, and storage conditions. Additionally, the flavor evolves over time. For me, kimchi is the food that best embodies the vitality and mystery of nature."

From spring to summer in 2020, she conducted a seasonal kimchi project called "MAAT Kimchi," where she made kimchi using seasonal vegetables grown by local farms and sold it online with direct home delivery. While most people think of napa cabbage kimchi, she has created kimchi using various seasonal vegetables like shishito peppers, turnips, and wild chives, which has now led to her connection with Marlow & Sons.

"Foreign customers who tasted the seasonal kimchi from the 'MAAT Kimchi' project were kind enough to enjoy it and give positive feedback. They seemed particularly intrigued by the idea that kimchi can be made with a variety of vegetables, having only encountered napa cabbage kimchi in Korean restaurants or local supermarkets."

When one thinks of chefs in New York, it’s easy to assume they have graduated from a prestigious culinary school, but she has never formally studied cooking.

"I was contemplating whether to go to culinary school or dive straight into the field. I prepared a resume and a portfolio with styled photos of the dishes I made and emailed it to Marlow & Sons, and thankfully, they contacted me. That's how I began learning to cook on the job. I tend to be interested in all areas of cooking, but I have a particular attachment to Korean cuisine, as it suits my palate best. While I respect experimental and avant-garde food, I prefer a familiar and comfortable atmosphere."

Having dreamed of being a fashion designer as a child, she majored in womenswear at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design in London but later switched to studying fine art at Chelsea College of Arts to pursue a more comprehensive and free form of art and design.

As an artist, she now cooks with a heart that cherishes the life that comes from nature and respects people in this unfamiliar land.

"I like to keep my hands relaxed and create a natural presentation when plating, making an effort to showcase various ingredients at a glance. I strive to effectively convey the aesthetic elements of food, such as color, texture, and dimensionality, similar to visual art."

"While enjoying the miraculous blessing of food, it’s easy to become accustomed to it as a primal and everyday act, which can lead to a lack of awareness of the origins of food and its various values. For someone who studied art, the unique way food engages all the senses and allows for a connection with the subject is incredibly appealing."

Jo So-young

2013 University of the Arts London, Chelsea College of Art & Design, London, UK, BA Fine Art

2009 University of the Arts London, Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, London, UK, BA Womenswear

Current: Marlow & Sons, Cook, New York, USA

Current: Ian Cunningham, Team Artist, Seoul, KR

2020: LaLou, Line Cook, New York, USA

2017-2019: Marlow & Sons, Line Cook, New York, USA

2014-2016: Samsung C&T Fashion, 8 Seconds Division, Assistant R&D, Seoul, KR