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The title of Master Sommelier is a qualification given only to the top experts in wine. To date, only 236 people worldwide have passed the test known as the "wine exam" by the Court of Master Sommeliers. This title is awarded only to those who successfully navigate an extensive and challenging wine theory exam and a demanding practical test. Last year, Kyungmoon Kim became the first Korean to pass the Master Sommelier test, capturing public attention. After completing a specialized chef training program at the Culinary Institute of America and graduating from the University of Nevada's Hotel Management, Kim was a founding member of Seoul's 'Jungsik' restaurant and its New York branch. Currently, he works at The Modern, a Michelin 2-star restaurant known for its list of 3,000 wines. A year after obtaining the Master Sommelier badge, Kim shares insights into the world of wine and the life of a sommelier at the Kenektid X Gallery near Manhattan's Bryant Park.
Growing up, I had a keen interest in food, likely influenced by my mother, who is a professor of food science. Thanks to my food-loving parents, I had many opportunities to dine out and experience a variety of new and diverse cuisines. In high school, I came to the U.S. to learn English, and as I pondered my career path ahead of graduation, my mother suggested I prepare for the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). With a strong passion for food and cooking, I wanted to become a chef. While at CIA, I encountered the field of wine. It was a realm entirely different from food, with many new things to learn about the diverse kinds of wine. Despite the challenges, the unique flavors and aromas that emerged from wine and food pairings captivated me. My interest in wine gradually deepened, leading me to pursue a career as a sommelier.
A sommelier acts as a bridge between guests and the restaurant via wine. Especially in America, guests visit restaurants for multifaceted experiences beyond just a meal, akin to theatergoers enjoying various cultural performances. Dining at a restaurant is considered part of a cultural lifestyle. Sommeliers guide guests to better enjoy the services offered at restaurants.
Last year, only three people, including Kyungmoon Kim, passed the Master Sommelier exam, highlighting its difficulty. To be eligible for the Master Sommelier exam, one must first pass the Introductory Sommelier, Certified Sommelier, and Advanced Sommelier exams. Some candidates are culinary trained, while others focus solely on wine. However, a crucial aspect of being a sommelier is possessing a service mindset and understanding guest manners, best achieved by accumulating experience working in restaurants.
To pass the three preliminary sommelier exams, one must excel in wine theory tests. Ultimately, the Master Sommelier exam grants candidacy for the final obstacle, the practical test evaluating blind tasting and service skills. Successful completion of these grants the Master Sommelier title.
While there is a common misconception that sommeliers must have refined taste buds, the role of the sense of smell is more significant. Exposure to various ingredients can be beneficial through training. Yet, the most critical quality for a sommelier is effective communication with guests. Sommeliers aren't merely experts in wine; they must understand their guests. Some sommeliers have studied psychology or philosophy before entering the field, emphasizing the importance of communication skills in this profession. A sommelier's key attribute is the ability to recommend the best service for each guest, understanding their preferences and the dining context. Mastery in both wine and food, combined with teamwork among restaurant staff, is essential for a successful sommelier.
During my military service as a naval soldier in Korea, I participated in and won an amateur sommelier competition. While studying in the U.S., I enlisted in the navy to complete my military duties, always holding onto wine books to maintain my knowledge. Although I couldn't participate in professional competitions due to my military status, I entered the amateur category, where I excelled. The media attention turned my unexpected win into a significant topic within the military. Consequently, I was invited by the Ministry of National Defense to give wine lectures across naval vessels, and before my discharge, joined 'Jungsikdang' as an opening member, crafting its wine list.
After completing my academic course in the U.S., I rejoined Jungsik as it opened its New York branch. Before joining The Modern, I managed the restaurant and wine program at Jungsik for four years while studying for my Master Sommelier exam. I realized the need to focus solely on wine, moving to The Modern to work within someone else's wine program, broadening my wine perspective.
Balancing work and study was the hardest challenge. Preparing for the theoretical exam demanded focus akin to college entrance exams. Working from early afternoon until late night left little time for study, causing moments of doubt. However, after passing the theoretical exam, my practical experiences helped me clear the practical tests in one go.
Although guests' views have changed, the greatest difference is my newfound confidence in assisting guests.
Beyond certification, it’s crucial to be adept in service. Treat guests with warmth and friendliness, as a sommelier’s relationship with guests differs in Korea and the U.S. Utilizing restaurant resources and engaging with sommeliers to find suitable wines and experiences is vital. Communicating openly with sommeliers can greatly enhance one's winery experience.
To enjoy wine, leverage restaurant resources and converse with sommeliers. The former stereotype of sommeliers pushing expensive wines has faded. Providing keywords like taste preferences and budget allows sommeliers to suggest suitable wines. Don’t hesitate to converse with your sommelier for a unique wine experience. In terms of etiquette, savor the flavors and aromas slowly, unlike a quick drink in social settings.
A German Riesling pairs well with spicy Korean dishes due to its sweetness and acidity. Natural wines, produced with minimal additives, have become popular, although the trend is mellowing in New York. These wines are drawing attention even in Korea.
Pinot Noir is my favorite, as it requires ideal conditions and craftsmanship akin to creating a perfect piece of art. As a Master Sommelier, I’ve spent over a year now and plan to open my restaurant after leaving The Modern. I’m committed to educating on wine and hospitality and am interested in producing my wine.
In conclusion, thank you for your time and insight. We look forward to your continued success as the only Korean Master Sommelier.
I'd like to express gratitude to Mom & I for their interest.
