Magazine
A legacy-driven media platform documenting Korean excellence in culture, economy, and identity
By Kim Hyang-il, Editor
Photography by Kim Kyung-moon, MS
In 2016, Kim Kyung-moon became the first Korean to earn the esteemed Master Sommelier certification, a credential possessed by only 274 individuals globally. Now, he sets his sights on introducing traditional Korean liquors to a broader audience. What changes prompted this shift?
The need for traditional liquors emerged during the opening of the New York branch of the renowned "Jungsik" restaurant in 2011. Despite crafting a wine list featuring 1,000 selections tailored to Chef Jung Sik's modern Korean cuisine, Kim recalls an instance that became a turning point. Guests frequently inquired about drinks that would complement Korean cuisine, a question which exposed a gap in his knowledge. At the time, sophisticated traditional liquors beyond the ubiquitous green-bottled soju were absent in New York.
Fast forward to 2020, Korean cuisine has firmly entrenched itself in New Yorkers’ daily lives. Michelin-starred Korean restaurants such as Jungsik, Atomix, and Jeju Noodle Bar are emerging, yet suitable traditional liquors to complement these dishes remain scarce. Believing a dining experience is complete only when paired with the right drink, Kim decided to import Korean traditional liquors himself.
Kim, an alumnus of the Culinary Institute of America and the University of Nevada's Hotel Management program, played a crucial role in establishing both the "Jungsik" branches in Seoul and New York. He later worked at The Modern, a Michelin 2-star restaurant renowned for its extensive wine list, where he earned his Master Sommelier title. Kim now leads a company importing premium Korean traditional liquors to the US.
KMS Imports introduces high-quality Korean liquors to the American market. South Korea, currently home to approximately 1,200 distilleries, largely struggles with distribution and marketing despite increasing diversity and quality in traditional liquors. Kim sees potential growth as interest among younger generations rises.
With several soju brands already established in the US market, Kim aims to differentiate traditional liquors by competing on quality. He argues that well-crafted traditional liquors, akin to art, possess intrinsic value unmatched by mass-produced soju. By showcasing these products in a city renowned for its diverse selection of global liquors, Kim believes New York is an ideal stage for Korean traditional liquors to shine.
Kim introduces three exemplary traditional liquors. Yangchon Chungju, a 100-year-old organic rice liquor from Nonsan, offers a delicate sweetness ideal for spicy dishes. Red Monkey, a vibrant red-tinted makgeolli made from red yeast, pairs well with seafood pancakes and pork dishes. Samhae Soju, a premium distilled spirit designated as a Seoul Intangible Cultural Property, is celebrated for its complex taste, best enjoyed with marbled beef or tuna sashimi.
The unique fermentation process using "nuruk" distinguishes Korean traditional liquors from others worldwide. This natural agent converts rice carbohydrates into alcohol, creating a distinct taste profile. Traditional Korean liquors reflect meticulous ingredient selection and fermentation techniques, with single distillation preserving the integrity of original flavors, akin to cognac or single malt whiskies.
Despite the pandemic's disruptions, initial feedback from sommeliers and restaurant staff was overwhelmingly positive. Kim envisions a future where Korean traditional liquors become as internationally recognized as sake. His passion extends beyond business; it is an endeavor to promote Korean culture through its beverages, striving for soju and other traditional liquors to be recognized as categories alongside vodka and whiskey in the global market.
With traditional liquors serving as conduits for deeper connection and conversation, Kim sees them not as mere products but as cultural ambassadors. His warm approach to promoting Korean "sul" (liquor) is poised to play a significant role in establishing it as a global name.
From discovering his keen palate as a youth to diving deep into the wine world, Kim Kyung-moon has built a substantial knowledge base that led him to the Master Sommelier certification. His subsequent journey into the heart of Korea sought to reconnect with his heritage, discovering master distillers committed to their craft. His goal is to introduce Korean traditional soju into American dining and drinking establishments as a distinguished category.
